For the last year, I have been riding a 2013 Turner Burner. Dave Turner brought the Burner name back to the line-up with his version of a 650b “all-mountain” do-it-all bike. He carried over many of the things he developed with the DW 5-Spot and created a real master piece in the new 650b wheel size.
I was a little hesitant to jump ship and hop on the 650b bandwagon, but all of those hesitations were laid to rest the day I took the Burner to the trails. This bike does everything better compared to my TNT 5 Spot – it really isn’t even a fair comparison. My first thought was it felt like my 5 Spot on steriods! The DW link keeps the rear end less active when you need it to be, the larger wheel size rolls over obstacles substantially better and I find myself centered inside the cock-pit compared to the feeling of being on top of my older 5 Spot – this probably has to do with the slightly longer top tube length and the longer wheel base.
The Burner is faster in every way compared to my previous Turner. In 2012, I raced Bike Monkey’s annual Annadel XC race – just the short course, 22 miles. My 2012 time on the TNT 5 Spot was 2:38:55. The following year I rode the Burner and came through with a time of 2:12:46 on a slightly longer course. I had also ridden much less in the beginning of 2013 (I was actually in better shape in 2012). The DW link played a huge roll in this increase in speed as well as the larger wheel size which inspired me to push myself on descents. If you are a Turner rider and are still riding a TNT or older style frame, I highly recommend making the switch to one of the more recent DW designs. The pay off will be noticeable.
Here are some pics below of the frame being built and the Burner being taken on its first ride.
below: After I realized PUSH does not customize the bare-bones CTD rear shock, I emailed Turner and had them upgrade me to the Kashima CTD rear shock which I then immediately mailed to PUSH. I also installed PUSH’s super-slick frame bushings which significantly reduce stiction at all the frame pivot points. Here are a few pics of the install.
above: To separate the links, thread in a bolt (headless screw shown as well) with the same size threads as the stock bolt and give it a light tap. You can use the stock bolt to do this, but I like the bolt I tap to be threaded completely into the link to ensure the threads are not damaged in any way – so I purchased a longer bolt.
above: I discovered a little dry patch of grease from the factory. Ooops!
above: If you don’t have a press to press in the bushings, place something flat against the bushing and tap that object so you don’t directly hammer on the bushing itself.